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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.